These are just links to all our pictures from the trip, we finally caught up on them all! They are in order if you want to see the month's progression.
Andersen's On The Beach, WA
Lewis & Clarke Campground/North Bonneville
River Rim, OR
Skull Hollow, OR
Cold Springs, Camp Sherman, OR
Crescent, OR
Lake Lemolo, OR
Crater Lake, OR
Southern Oregon
Del Norte Redwoods, CA
Stealth Camping, Eureka, CA
Caspar Beach, Mendocino, CA
24 Sept 2013
23 Sept 2013
Californ-I-A
Stopped off at a roadside 30's style curio shop |
I am finally in the mystical lands of California. I've had mixed feelings about getting here. While I was travelling through Central America, I found California Americans were among my least favourite people. I can't remember exactly why now, but the accent was definitely part of it. So far, no problems. The Californians actually in California don't seem so bad, but we haven't hit the cities yet. There is still time to hate...
We had a bit of a scare just after my last entry. As I was typing it, we could smell gas in the cabin. We kept thinking someone around us must have a leak. And yes, the spoiler, it was us. We finally located the problem to the fuel line leading to the generator. The end of the pipe attached to the generator was split, and we were pretty sure this was the culprit. Being a little nervous of fuel lines etc, we stopped in at a Cummins warehouse we happened upon and got their advice. They looked at it for free, which was awesome. They confirmed our diagnosis and said it was a problem we could easily do ourselves, which we did! We got a bucket, pliers, scissors and all sorts of fun tools and just snipped the end off and reattached. We were rather proud of ourselves, we seem to be learning fast!
We were prepared for these kinds of roads though. The road around Crater Lake felt like it was designed for roller coasters. Just before we left Oregon, we stayed in another place in the passover town of O'Brien. We were going to stay in a place called Cave Junction, but upon arrival at the campsite, we decided to move along and see if we could find anywhere better. Neither of us got a good feeling from it, and the police car behind us patrolling the area wasn't necessarily comforting. When we arrived at a much more friendly place, they looked at our rig and told us it was probably small enough to make it up the hairpin bends towards the Oregon Caves National Monument. But we were told we could check our own tail-lights on the way round
the corners. It was pretty damn bendy, but it was completely worth it. We went in the cave on a guided tour, unusual for us as it costed $8.50 each. It was our guide's last day and last tour, and he was brilliant. Funny in an understated way and dealt with the guys who thought they were funny really well. The cave itself was fascinating - lots of bending and contorting around rocks. The lodge, which is a functioning hotel right outside the cave, had been decorated in tree bark and was impressive in itself. It helped that it was a rainy day and we weren't missing out on any sunny fun.
encounter, and shared the ride through some of them with us. We came upon an accident on one of these bends. We were some of the first on the scene and were told what had happened. Trucks often cut corners off when going around these sharp bends, and a car had been coming the other way. The car got stuck under the truck's back wheels as they came at the bend from opposite directions. The guy was fine, but considering the drop that could easily have swallowed them both, they were both counting their lucky stars.
We headed out bright and early the next day towards the coast. We were paying a bit more for this campsite, but it was right on the beach, so we thought we'd treat ourselves. It was meant to take 3 hours. It took 5. The first half was relatively fine, mainly straight roads, dual carriageways. My hip started to ache after 3 hours, so Dave took over. The the fun began. It almost felt like the road had a vendetta. It curved and winded relentlessly. The problem with windy, hilly roads in an RV is you have to pull over to let faster vehicles pass. If you have more than 5 cars behind you and you drive past a safe pull-in, you can get a ticket. Of course stopping and starting in a vehicle this big and heavy takes it toll on everything, including the driver. This was a busy road, with 1 motorhome for every 4 cars. It would be a great road to drive in a car, if it weren't for the motorhomes. We blazed petrol, the transmission, the tracking, not to mention the
Luckily the next day was beautiful. A storm was scheduled, but it went right past us. The coastline was akin to Cornwall. Tall, imposing bluffs and dramatic outcrops of rocks. We walked along the bluff to a lighthouse, which was surprisingly bustling with tourists. We didn't go in (you had to pay) but appreciated its epic location. We sat and watched a squirrel for quite some time - it was a California ground squirrel. The only reason I looked this up was because it was burrowing, and I've never seen a burrowing squirrel before, but low and behold, they exist. On our little walk we also saw 2 deer, a heron and multiple birds of prey!
The campsite itself was over-priced. We were crammed in with the least amount of space we've had since the trip began. We have decided to stay away from pricey places - our favourite campsites so far have been the cheapest ones. Mo money, mo problems! However, we had been on the beach since the afternoon of our last day, and decided we would have a fire and have dinner on the beach - hotdogs and left over mac n
cheese. We saw a pretty immense sunset and got the beach all to ourselves. It was a picture perfect moment.
We are now on our way to see Dave's uncle. We are camped out in a casino RV park, nice and cheap. We took a quick walk yesterday to get a feel for our surroundings. This is an Indian Reservation, and we wandered into territory we weren't welcome in. Someone came over and told us this as nicely as someone can that people in the area wouldn't appreciate our presence and to be careful. It made us feel awkward all over and we hastily made our way back to the park. We were stopped by one local native american, drunk off his box, asking if we'd seen a red car.
We decided to ease our adrenaline in the casino. I had to get someone to explain how to use the bastard slot machines. We got $20 free to gamble with as it was my birthday month. I won $33.43!!! I still have $10 left to gamble with, and I still only have a rudimentary understanding of exactly what it is I'm doing. But eh, I'm not gambling with my own money, and I'm hanging on to the money I won - I will not spend it on their beer or food, which is what most of the sorry looking cases in the casino seem to be doing.
I forgot to mention in my past blogs that we were pulled over by the police fairly early on in the trip. He just wanted to check that we weren't tired as we had done something wrong (neither of us can figure out what he said to this day). Having never been pulled over by the police, I must have looked like a wanted fugitive. I got all flustered, and I don't know why. They make me feel like I did when I was a kid and my mum used my full name. You know you've done something wrong, you just need to figure out what is was before they asked. But the copper was nice enough and let us on our way.
And the adventure continues - still not sure where we're going next, we just know we need to be at Dave's uncle's by Wednesday. Don't you just hate deadlines?
15 Sept 2013
Boondocking Fun
Lava Caves |
many people around so we could play our music without worrying we were upsetting the neighbour's chihuahua. It was our first boondock too, and apart from the fridge not working, it went great. We have come to realise that this RV is temperamental. If it doesn't feel like doing something, we don't push it. It is made by a company called Damon, which has inadvertently become the name for the vehicle. Well, more precisely, Matt Damon said with the inflection of a special needs deaf child. Anyone who has seen Family Guy may know this reference, if not, it's not the slightest bit funny, sorry. Any time we refer to the Rig, it is said with that inflection and we know it's a vehicle only a mother could love.
NOT our private creek |
Guns AND Liquor! |
We stayed in Crescent because it was on the way to the Lava Caves, which we visited the next day. We stupidly didn't bring coats with us to the cave, and thought we would be able to handle it. Which we did. But
we dutifully complained at decent intervals the way any good English folk would. It was an impressive cave and took about 40 minutes to walk to end of. We had our lantern and a torch, neither of which provided enough light to look into the nooks and crannies, but we had fun.
We went on to Lemolo Lake, thinking we would be able to get wifi to send a bunch of emails etc, only to find out that there was not only no wifi, but no phone reception either. It was a beautiful lake which was distinctly unpopulated. We went for a swim on
our first day and waded through algae which were later told was a bit toxic. But eh, we're still alive! We hired out paddle boats the next day and took a couple of beers and a packed lunch for the paddle round the
lake. We made our way around most of it before losing steam (running out of food and beer) and decided to head home. Some very kind neighbours gave us watermelon that they couldn't get through. Being just two of us, we couldn't get through all of it either, so we made a cocktail. And you know what? A watermelon+mango+vodka=very good. I seem to be giving the impression, however, that all we do is drink. I would like to correct this. Our day may be punctuated by a well placed/timed beverage, but it is not the topic of the day. It is merely a moment where we take a break, take stock of our good fortune, and relish each other's company during a contemplative sit down.
All of this was leading us toward Crater Lake, where we were hoping for some hookups and some internet. I've been quite excited about visiting Crater Lake, and it didn't disappoint. The roads literally skirt the rim of the crater, and I was driving. I was sweating as I could see the sheer drop with no wall and a tiny road ahead. It reminded me of the buses I took with my parents on the Greek islands. You're sure you're going to go over, and the only comforting thought is that the bus does it every day and hasn't had an accident. Or has it? We filed up behind cars to get up to overlook points and all that fun herding stuff. But we finally made it to the lodge and started searching for a parking space. The second time round I tried to squeeze in between 2
other RV's with little success. A guy comes bounding over saying he will pull forward - he was from the trailer in front. We parked up and got our hiking gear on. We were going to take one of the 'moderate' hikes, but, after talking to staff, ended up on a strenuous one. If Americans consider it strenuous, it couldn't be that bad! We saw the same guy who pulled the trailer forward for us about to start a run up the same trail. While the trail wasn't bad, it was strenuous in places, and I certainly wouldn't be able to run up it. But it was a good hike, and the 360 degree view was well worth it. We saw the same guy at the top and started talking. He was incredibly knowledgeable and really interesting, so we said we would meet up at the bottom for a drink in the lodge. We got down there and he was on his second beer. We got to chatting more and went for a drink in our RV - a bit of an I'll show you mind if you show me yours kind of deal.
Paul knew a lot about RVs and mechanics, having been an engineer in many different capacities. We raided his brain as much as we could without being annoying and learned a few good lessons from him. He really was great company, and the first friend we have made on the journey. I can only hope we come across more like him. We may even see him again. We have exchanged numbers, and if he's in the vicinity, we will hopefully meet up again.
We are now in some campsite, somewhere. We were very hungover yesterday and wanted nothing more than to turn the AC on, sit and watch crap on a screen. Which we did, after a visit to Walmart and an annoying detour provided by our GPS. We will be heading off tomorrow once we get our affairs back in order (cleaning, bathing, emailing, oh my!). The other major task of the day is deciding where the hell to go next. It really is a hard life.
Dave in a bear locker |
Me in a log |
10 Sept 2013
Oregon & Deserts
the middle of the desert and the sprinklers were a welcome treat on a hot day. Dave was a miserable bastard and just took pictures of me having all the fun!
We pulled up at the RV park and surveyed our surroundings. They were quite different from our previous stop - the trees were replaced with scrub brush and mountains replaced with craggy rock and gorges. We had chosen the RV park because we have a juvenile sense of humour and River Rim RV Park sounded
funny (it turns out they own another RV Park called Big Horn...). But it turned out to be the best RV park we've stayed in yet. The owner, Dave, was an absolute legend. He had an excellent sense of humour, and treated us like he'd known us for years. He gave us a discount on our stay when we told him of our plans. I think he may have also taken pity on us and our vehicle. While we were there, the toilet blocked up. Twice. The first time took us 2 days, a toilet snake, a plunger, sceptic tank waste dissolver and boiling water to shift. It only took a day to amass another blockage, but this time we were prepared! Dave told us not to bother flushing toilet paper. We didn't listen to him the first time, figuring our issue lay in not using toilet paper specifically designed for RV toilets (yes, it does exist). After the second blockage we
heeded his advice. We still have to throw hot water down it a couple times a day, but it flows down! We figure there must be some pooey remnants stuck in the piping, and by throwing water down there, the hardened fun stuff should shift down. Dave will be waiting at the end of the pipe when this happens and we shall make some fine jewelry out of it!
The first day in the park we went down to a bar tucked into a golf course. We thought it was the only one around, and with the name Sandbagger, our juvenile senses were appealed to once again. Shame though, should have realised anywhere with a focus on golfers was going to be a bit rubbish. The staff were awful - loud and abrasive, but not in a charismatic way, more in a "I'm not pretty enough to make it on looks alone, but have fooled myself into think I am" kind of way. They spent more time joking and flirting with the older men who would tip them well for their show of breasts and attention. Fair play I guess. I certainly wasn't going to tip them for their breasts. And believe me, if they were worth it, I would have done. But anyway, we had our drink and left. We had thought that this place was just at the end of our road, but it was about a mile down the road. If we had had more than one drink, we probably would have left them a steaming present on one of the paths we weren't permitted to walk on. Lucky they were bad enough not even alcohol made us stay! On the last day, we found the Big Dog Saloon, which was much more about the locals. While we got eyed with the usual suspicion a city looking folk type gets when entering an establishment like this, they were all very friendly with each other. I got the impression the same camaraderie would have been shown to us had we attended more than once.
The next day we decided we were going to stay in this spot for a while, so we went into Bend to float down the Deschutes River. It was a lovely afternoon, and we brought beer with us (of course). But I was amazed that this activity was a) free and b) unsupervised. All you need is your own rubber ring (which we now have!) and the ability to block out the cold water stun which stays with you most of the way. There is a point where you get to a dam and a mini waterfall - here you have to dismount and walk around. This is why they couldn't do this unsupervised in England. Both Dave and I were tempted to hurtle down the waterfall despite all the signs saying "death" and "danger." If this had been England, you'd have found a bunch of drunken lager louts at the bottom of this little waterfall all scrabbling around trying to find the last beer.
Afterwards we took a walk around Bend, the major town through which the Deschutes flows. It's a lovely town, lots of taunting restaurants and restaurant smells everywhere. Cafes galore, bars aplenty, and a second bookshop that had Dave foaming at the mouth with its comic selection. We had intended to go back for an evening of drinking, but weren't in the mood for it when a convenient time rolled around. That's the great thing about this - we don't have to do anything we don't want!
found a longer path to hike across the top of them. Of course, no one else was on it. Everyone else just 'hiked' up to the sign and then trotted back to their air-conditioned car. Unfortunately the drive home was a little fraught, and it really did seem like the steering wheel was having a little joke with us, one that it enjoyed so much that it actually got worse every time Dave complained about it. I was nearly having a breakdown trying not laugh, but Dave had not seen the funny side yet, and I don't blame him.
We have since left, celebrated my birthday (thank you to my family for my messages!) and have been in 3 different campsites, but this entry looks long enough already! If you are ever in the area on Central Oregon, stop in at River Rim RV Park. It has amazing views, it's quiet without feeling like a cemetery, and the owners are great people. They really made us feel at home, and David is the kind of guy who always has something interesting to talk about. While he does love to talk, it's nothing but a treat to listen to.
3 Sept 2013
Farewell, Washington!
We have officially been on the road a week and we have already met some cool people and had some very cool experiences. We have started to upload our pictures to dropbox, so if you want to see them all (be patient as we add the backstock) then click here.
Cape Disappointment... |
Disappointment, primarily due to the name, and it lived up to it. We had to pay $10 to park, so we turned around and found a spot by the side of the road to take pictures. Screw you Washington government!
Mount Hood |
Beacon Rock |
View from Beacon Rock |
Since the park didn't have a shop or internet we decided to check out North Bonneville. This is an experience I shan't forget anytime soon. It turns out the town had been relocated just down the road, and whoever designed the new town layout thought they would try something new. It was most surreal. In the 'downtown' section, all the houses were set on a green with big concrete paths going between them. There were no driveways, just an area off to the side that looked like mall parking. Then we saw a sign - it was what we were looking for - cold beer. A menu was up and it was scrawled on a piece of poster paper. Another scrawled sign told us the place was called 'Sweet
Outside Sweet Ricky's |
That night the campsite was raucous. You know when all the hicks on South Park get drunk and start yelling 'YEAH!' and 'WOOOH!' and high fiving each other? I have now learned that this representation is just that - not an exaggeration but a merely accurate representation of a certain kind of folk. It was extremely funny to listen to, and we hoped to find the culprits passed out in the grass in the morning, clutching an empty beer can. Alas it was not to be so.
We awoke the next morning and decided to take a small walk to a nearby hot springs resort and see if there was anything to do there. On our way out we saw a few people stood around, one holding a stubby fishing pole. We went over and asked what they were doing, and, in short, they "cat fishing." I had seen some
"Cat Fishing" |
swim as it was hotter than we were used to. This took us on another hiking trail trying to find the Columbia River. We found it, after a time, and found water we could wade in after bruising our feet on rocks. All of this was done in good spirits. It was long and tiring and convoluted, but we had nowhere to be and nothing but time, and the thought of this made it all the more enjoyable. That and the incredible scenery everywhere we went.
By this point we definitely deserved a drink, so we prepped ourselves on the approach to the 'bar.' "Just look like we belong there, just look confident, and we'll be fine" "yeah, just don't be awkward." None of this prep was necessary. The bar tender, who was sat outside, greeted us in warm, slurring speech. He was about our age and had a great sense of humour about himself. He was from our trailer park, known to the locals as 'the LC.' There were tables, air hockey, some other arcade games and a karaoke set up that commenced pretty much the moment we stepped through the door at ear drum piercing volume and treble. We were offered BBQ chicken, just out on the bar on offer like chips and peanuts. And it was delicious chicken. We stayed for a couple and said we would be back for dinner and more drinks. Live
Inside Sweet Ricky's |
It was my turn to drive the next day, so we were out early as my stomach was churning with nervousness. Driving your home around is awesome, but also mentally taxing. If anything happens, it's not just your mode of transport, it's your home. But, I managed to navigate a small bridge, a toll booth, a town, winding roads
and the highway. Once you get used to it, it's great to drive. Better than the pontiac predecessor! So we are now in Oregon, in the high plains desert. More stuff has happened, more cool things to write about, but I'll do that another day. This is enough adventure for one entry!
Overall, still loving it. We find ourselves constantly saying to each other, "This is what it's all about!" to the point where it has become a bit of an in-joke. But in all seriousness, we are constantly reminded why what we are doing is so, well, absolutely awesome.
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