Now to update on everything over the past month. We spent longer than we should have done on Caye Caulker, although we saw Manatees and did an amazing snorkeling trip which ended with me almost blind drunk from the free rum punch they serve on the way back. We then moved over to San Pedro, its larger, sister island. We had a room with cable TV, our own bathroom, fridge, and the most impressive of all, hot water! Rosie and I initially headed over on our own and saw the TV, a sight our eyes had not clapped on in 2 months. We went straight out and bought a bottle of wine and settled down for a night of watching television. It was glorious. We ended up watching a lot of television while we were on San Pedro, and my eyes just are not used to it. They started to ache and I got a headache. Perhaps watching TV is not a healthy thing for children, I´m sure damage must be done to the eyes. Don´t get me wrong, I haven´t gone over to the other side, but when I get back in an environment where television is everywhere, I will make sure to curb my viewing.
Swedish friends of ours, Eric and Ida, wanted to join up with us again to do an island hopping sailing tour with our travel buddy Pricsilla. We met up and went on to a little camping spot called Barton Creek Outpost, a beautiful setting in the middle of nowhere. We canoed over to a cave and got ourselves a discount tour as the boss was away.The guy took us in and we got the rare treat of being able to hike above the water in the cave, something we were told they stopped doing years ago. It was lots of fun and then got to swim in the river that runs through the cave. As we left, we came across some Menonite teenagers sneaking their way in on a boat. There are a surprising number of Menonites who keep themselves to themselves, but are always happy to give you a wave as you drive past.
Rosie and I then moved on and took the opportunity to spend some time together travelling through southern Belize. We hopped on a little fishing boat from the Garifuna town of Dangriga and made our way over to Tobacco Caye, an island that takes 2 minutes to walk around. It is an island directly on the reef with amazing snorkelling from the moment you put your head under. But the best sight was seen in the boat on the way - my first live dolphin viewing. Just incredible. We stayed on the Caye for one night, a night enjoyed with some great Americans with a brilliant sense of humour (no, I´m not joking) and trdiational Garifuna drumming.
We then made our way to Hopkins on what felt like the party bus of Belize. Everyone was in grand spirits shouting and laughing with beers in hand. We ended up staying at a place called the Funky Dodo upon someone´s recommendation, and we were not disappointed. It is run by an English guy from Brighton who has a keen eye for a party. We ended up being invited to a party for the opening of a bar on a wharf. It was a brilliant night which ended in the morning with Rosie holding my hair and stroking my back as I emptied my stomach into a pan by the side of the bed. Classy, no, but a price worth paying, yes! Hopkins is a fishing village with a lovely, friendly vibe. A very laid back place and one of the cheapest places we found in Belize. I only wish we could have spent more time there.
We then moved on to find our friends off the sailing boat in Placencia and move on to the Rio Dulce in Guatemala as we had heard amazing things. We stayed in Livingston in an alcoholic hostel where they practically bully you into drinking. This is by no means a complaint. But I got a call while I was staying there - Dave, my boyfriend, had lost his job back in England and was coming out for the rest of the trip, but I got the day he was coming mixed up and he arrived a day earlier than I anticipated. As I practically fell over myself to get to him, I went up the Rio Dulce, not really paying much attention to the surroundings (a bit of a disappointment anyway) and awaited his arrival. When he arrived I couldn´t stop shaking for ages, funny what happiness can do.
We then made our way over to Honduras and the Bay Islands so people could do the insanely cheap PADI courses which are supplied there. I decided not to do the course, a very tough decision made harder by all my travelling buddies bar Dave doing it. But we got an amazing deal - we got free accomodation in a lovely cottage with kitchen, dining area and living room. It was nice to have a sort of base. But that is where we left Rosie and the rest, they may join later, but the pull of Utila is strong, and lots of people end up staying for a while.
I have now had a call to go to the beach, we are now in El Salvador, but the next leg of our journey was amusingly intense and requires more time than I have to give at the moment. I can see you holding on to your seats, but it´s ok, I´ll be back.
9 Feb 2012
7 Feb 2012
Long Overdue
Right, this is something I totally forgot to put in ages ago, but I feel it is one of the coolest things we have done so far, so I can´t miss it out. I´ll put the rest in a different posting.
On December 21st, 2011, one year exactly before the Mayan prophecy of an era of change, we went to Tikal, one of the most prominent Mayan sites. We had already visited Tikal the day before and were shown round by a brilliant guide. He had dropped in to the conversation that he was taking others the day after for an áfter hours showing.´Obviously, we were intrigued. We ended up agreeing a price and being told that he had a special surprise for us, and he would bring something along to make it a bit more fun. I know this all sounds fairly ominous, but ironically I have learned to trust out here. Well, perhaps trust my instincts, and no alarm bells rang at all.
We arrived the next day bearing some nibbles and a bottle of rum. There were 7 of us, all prepared to climb the temple to watch the sunset. First of all, no one is allowed to be in the park after sunset, second of all, no one is allowed to climb the temple. This is due to some stupid American falling down and killing herself. Same goes for Chitchen Itza - stupid American ruining it (no pun intended) for everyone. But if you pay enough, you can do just about anything. The surprise was going down a tunnel which (apparently) only 5 people a year enter. It was beautiful - the reds were still vibrant and the faces of the images were still clear. We had to crouch down with our torches to get through the tunnel among tarantulas, scorpion spiders and rats. Good fun!
We then began the ascent of the temple. Precarious to say the least as the stairs are falling away in most places, but I had a feeling that after a couple of rums at the top the decent would be more challenging, albeit less worrying with the warmth of rum in my stomach. We got to the top and the guide pulled out a large bud of cannabis to share with the group. So, when in Rome, and admittedly the scenery around me glittered with life, which was spectacular as it needed no enhancement to be enchanting. We say two toucans fly across the sunset, and watched the sun set over the vast jungle - not a power line in sight.
We made our way down in the dark and some of us on our bums and made our way toward a Mayan ceremony. At this point I became uncomfortable because the locals were obviously not happy about us being there. We were told, when approached too close, that the music was finished in a fairly brash tone. We walked away and the music started up again. Unfortunately we were not the only tourists there and not all were as sensitive to the feelings of the Mayans. It was an impressive ceremony to watch, even from afar. I have never seen the sky look like that. I now understand why the Mayans were so obsessed with the sky and the stars. I could not pull my eyes away from the clarity, the mind-boggling infinity, the black and sparkling sheet above me. Every detail was visible, every star. To this day I don´t think I have seen or will ever see anything that moved me as much as that did. I had permanent goosebumps. To top it off, the shadow of a fire danced upon a looming temple set against the backdrop of that sublime sky. An image forever etched on my brain.
So, I know that everyone that was there that night with our guide will be thinking the same thing at the same time next year - how lucky we were to experience Tikal at such a momentous time. I only wish everyone could see the sky like that at one point in their lives.
On December 21st, 2011, one year exactly before the Mayan prophecy of an era of change, we went to Tikal, one of the most prominent Mayan sites. We had already visited Tikal the day before and were shown round by a brilliant guide. He had dropped in to the conversation that he was taking others the day after for an áfter hours showing.´Obviously, we were intrigued. We ended up agreeing a price and being told that he had a special surprise for us, and he would bring something along to make it a bit more fun. I know this all sounds fairly ominous, but ironically I have learned to trust out here. Well, perhaps trust my instincts, and no alarm bells rang at all.
We arrived the next day bearing some nibbles and a bottle of rum. There were 7 of us, all prepared to climb the temple to watch the sunset. First of all, no one is allowed to be in the park after sunset, second of all, no one is allowed to climb the temple. This is due to some stupid American falling down and killing herself. Same goes for Chitchen Itza - stupid American ruining it (no pun intended) for everyone. But if you pay enough, you can do just about anything. The surprise was going down a tunnel which (apparently) only 5 people a year enter. It was beautiful - the reds were still vibrant and the faces of the images were still clear. We had to crouch down with our torches to get through the tunnel among tarantulas, scorpion spiders and rats. Good fun!
We then began the ascent of the temple. Precarious to say the least as the stairs are falling away in most places, but I had a feeling that after a couple of rums at the top the decent would be more challenging, albeit less worrying with the warmth of rum in my stomach. We got to the top and the guide pulled out a large bud of cannabis to share with the group. So, when in Rome, and admittedly the scenery around me glittered with life, which was spectacular as it needed no enhancement to be enchanting. We say two toucans fly across the sunset, and watched the sun set over the vast jungle - not a power line in sight.
We made our way down in the dark and some of us on our bums and made our way toward a Mayan ceremony. At this point I became uncomfortable because the locals were obviously not happy about us being there. We were told, when approached too close, that the music was finished in a fairly brash tone. We walked away and the music started up again. Unfortunately we were not the only tourists there and not all were as sensitive to the feelings of the Mayans. It was an impressive ceremony to watch, even from afar. I have never seen the sky look like that. I now understand why the Mayans were so obsessed with the sky and the stars. I could not pull my eyes away from the clarity, the mind-boggling infinity, the black and sparkling sheet above me. Every detail was visible, every star. To this day I don´t think I have seen or will ever see anything that moved me as much as that did. I had permanent goosebumps. To top it off, the shadow of a fire danced upon a looming temple set against the backdrop of that sublime sky. An image forever etched on my brain.
So, I know that everyone that was there that night with our guide will be thinking the same thing at the same time next year - how lucky we were to experience Tikal at such a momentous time. I only wish everyone could see the sky like that at one point in their lives.
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